Friday, July 17, 2015

[知床觀光船] 從海上看熊‧海豚‧絕種海鳥‧ Watching brown bears, dolphins, and threatened seabirds

知床觀光船三小時全紀錄。I recommend you spend 3 hours taking the cruise.

我首次帶長鏡頭出征,自告奮勇搭船頭,但有人的長鏡頭跟手臂一樣長。
It is my first time to have a telephoto lens, so I have a brave soul to stand in the front of the cruise. See the guy's telephoto lens which is as long as his arm.
日本首次地質百選,第一名就是知床半島。而且知床半島登錄世界遺產的理由之一,就是很顯著的陸地與海域的動植物互動生態。
It is Shiretoko Peninsula that is ranked top 1 Japanese geography. 
Moreover, this world heritage site includes the land and the surrounding marine area. It provides an outstanding example of the interaction of marine and terrestrial ecosystem.

但是知床半島中間到頂點的知床岬沒公路,所以搭觀光船是觀光客唯一解。
However, it is inaccessible from the central part to its tip (Shiretoko Cape). Therefore, it is the only solution for tourists to take the cruise.

14:19
當地暱稱Furepe瀑布(フレぺの滝)為少女的淚(乙女の涙),沒有源頭河流,涓細地從峭壁流出後直奔鄂霍次克海。
Furepe Waterfall, known as tears of young girls, drops down from a steep cliff and into Sea of Okhotsk. It is fed by the ground water, which means that there is no visible river leading to it.

14:23
具知床代表性的烏海鴿ケイマフリ,白眼鏡紅腳丫,知床剩不到140隻。烏海鴿紅腳丫跟企鵝一樣,會潛水唷!甚至能潛70米深。
Shiretoko's representative seabird, Spectacled Guillemot, wearing red boots and white spectacles on the face, is estimated to number <140 breeding pairs.
Because of its red legs like those of penguins, Spectacled Guillemot dive even >70 meters.

14:25
圖片右上角和左下角有喉嚨白白的暗綠背鸕鶿(海鵜ウミウ),為了怕熊吃雛鳥,所以在斷崖中築巢。科學家藉由岩石白白的棲息痕跡,研究瀕臨絕種的鳥類。
In the upper right and the lower left corner of the photo are Japanese cormorants with white throats, known as Temminck's cormorants.
They build their nests on the ledges of cliffs for fear that bears eat young birds. Scientists know where there are white ledges, there are the natural habitats.


14:33
沒想到我也有海鳥點水起飛的攝影技術的一天!
這時才證實為何英日文都沒提,但唯獨中文名是「
暗綠背」鸕鶿。

The Japanese cormorant is photographed skimming the water! Call me photographer. haha~


14:34
白尾海鵰オジロワシ,虎視眈眈看著暗綠背鸕鶿。嗯~下午茶時間到了嗎?
The white-tailed sea eagle is eyeing those Japanese cormorants. Is it teatime?


14:42
Kamuiwakka カムイワッカの滝周圍為什麼都沒有動物生存呢?知道的人請留言。(提示:源頭的活火山硫黃山)
Why there's neither land animals nor seabirds living around Kamuiwakka waterfall? Welcome to leave messages.(Hint: the waterfall derives from the active volcano Iou.)


14:49
Youshibetsu瀑布(ヨウシベツの滝)好像Y字形的水晶項鍊呀!
Youshibetsu waterfall looks like a Y necklace of crystal.

啊!有熊!
三四十個人的船就有這種好處,一看到熊,船長會慢慢地接近。
Look! A bear!
Once any bear is spotted, the captain steers close to the cove or the shore. That's why I suggest that tourists take smaller cruises (up to 50 members).


船靠近之後,發現熊熊在對我們搖屁屁~
The cruise gets closer and closer, and... the bear seems to twerk?


15:02
公路沒到的地方,怎麼會有人住?
原來是番屋ばんや。番屋在知床半島的意思不一樣唷,是指漁師在夏天捕魚時投宿或是作業的小屋。
Why are there lodging houses in the remote spot? There's no road...
In fact, the lodging house is named Banya. The meaning of Banya in Shiretoko is different.
In summer, fishermen in Shiretoko will stay overnight or continue fishing operations in Banya.


15:03
真的是下午茶時間耶!番屋附近有魚吃到飽~
Teatime! All-you-can-eat fish buffet is served near Banya. haha~


15:04
三隻熊熊家族也來番屋吃下午茶嗎?
Would the bear family like to enjoy the teatime?

難道是熊爸爸在做日光浴?熊媽媽抓魚給小熊吃嗎?
Are one bear and the cub catching fish? Is the other one sunbathing?


15:23
日本朋友一句「有個瀑布是直接注入海裡唷~」,就這樣我被Kashuni瀑布(カシュニの滝)拐來知床過夏天。黑色洞窟的背景,讓薄絲般的水珠像極了深V黑禮服胸前的寶石項鍊。
My Japanese has told me that there is a waterfall plunging directly into Sea of Okhotsk, so I'm induced to spend my summer in Shiretoko. Behind Kashuni waterfall is a cliff-formed backdrop, and the waterfall looks like jewelry matching with a plunging neckline dress, doesn't it?


15:40
「知床旅情」這首歌一開頭就是...♫知床の岬にはまなすの咲くころ♫...
白色燈塔矗立在知床半島頂端,代表我到了天涯海角,因為知床在愛奴語的意思就是「大地的盡頭」。
In the language of Japanese indigenous Ainu people, shiretoko means "the end of the earth." The lighthouse marks the tip of Shiretoko peninsula.

沒想到一到大地盡頭,相機電池也到了盡頭了啊啊~從這張照片開始,就麻煩手機了。
Unfortunately, the minute I get to the end of the earth, my camera's battery is dead......


15:52
回程會離海岸比較遠,目的之一就是可以看海豚。
On the return trip, the cruise travels farther away from the coastline, because another highlight is watching dolphins!

相機沒電,只能用手機拍,殘念!
The quality of film would be better, if my smart phone came with a telephoto lens.



16:39
著名的知床連山是火山群,
硫黃山(1562m),是Kamuiwakka瀑布的源頭。
最高的是羅臼岳(1661m),是岩尾別溫泉的源頭。

The volcanic Shiretoko mountain range runs down the center of the peninsula, including the active volcano Iou (leading to Kamuiwakka waterfall) and the highest peak of the range, Rausu-dake (leading to Iwaobetsu onsen).






16:58
左上的橋是我最愛看夕陽的Puyuniプユニ岬,
右下的橋就是我偶遇熊的幌別橋。
The upper left bridge is Puyuni cape, where I usually watch the sunset.
The lower right bridge is Horobetsu bridge, where I've encountered the bears.

17:09
下船後有個貼心的酷斯拉手湯,免費暖暖凍僵的雙手,日本人真的凡事考慮到他人。
There is a free Godzilla hand onsen next to the pier. How do Japanese know the tourists are chilly? They always take others into consideration, aren't they?


[心得 What I learned from taking the cruise?]


我最愛的Iruka Hotel, 是網路評價海景最棒的飯店,還可以直接走進海邊。
My favorite Iruka Hotel provides guests the most splendid sea view. And guests often walk to the sea.


17:23
但我這天一回到Iruka Hotel飯店的第一件事,就是直接走進海邊看夕陽,和.....
撿寶特瓶!
沒想到還有從北朝鮮漂過來的咧~
But upon coming back to Iruka Hotel, I walk to the sea to watch the sunset first, and ......
pick up litter!
I can't believe some PET bottles float from North Korea.
誰叫我看到熊熊們棲息的海邊有寶特瓶呢!
You know what I feel when I see pieces of litter on the rocky beach where bears are spotted...


19:30
對!這是晚上七點半,在為地球盡一份心力之後,Iruka Hotel的海蝕平台的夕陽更美了!
Picking up litter, I view the sunset from Iruka Hotel. Even though it's 19:30, the sunset is getting more and more beautiful in the wave-cut platform.
19:41
大滿足!現捕的螃蟹,現做的煎餃,看盤子就知道我不是在餐館,是美雪Miyuki-san的好手藝。
I can't believe my eyes. See the plates and you'll know I am not in any restaurants. Miyuki-san cooks fresh crabs and hand-made fried dumplings. How satisfied I am!

[指南 Guide]
  1. 費用:最遠的路線到知床岬,8000円。The full course up to Cape Shiretoko costs 8000yen. 
  2. 時間:最遠的路線要三小時,出發前半小時要集合。The full way takes 3 hours.
  3. 裝備:望遠鏡。相機。連帽防風防潑水外套。暈船藥。水。防曬。Telescopes, cameras, windbreakers, dramamine, and water. Sun protection.

July 17, 2015
日本知床半島登陸世界遺產十周年紀念日。
Shiretoko Peninsula marks the 10th anniversary of its listing as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

4 comments:

  1. 太棒了!你的遊記其實相當的知識性啊!感覺做了不少的功課哦!看到了這些似曾相識的照片,也讓我又想起了暑假的那段旅程,真是回味無窮啊!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 地理大神親臨指導,快拜!

      我會去搭觀光船,也是受你們影響。還有知床五湖,如果當時是跟你們這些專家一起去的話,我地理一定變超強的!

      Delete
  2. 寫的真好 也勾起滿滿的回憶 讚

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 地質地理雙神蒞臨指導,我何德何能啊~太感動了!

      我也是看了你們超強大的北海道壯遊相簿,才想要寫網誌的呀!
      (點你名字就可以看到相簿,啊~滿滿的共同記憶啊)

      Delete